Food trends are typically followed
by parallel trends in wine. Witness the recent focus on organic, biodynamic,
and local wines—at restaurants and wine shops across the country. But, just as
the locavore movement has begun spurning mere organic produce (consecrating
“beyond organic” farmers such as Joel Salatin as movement heros), fans of
terroir—let’s call them terroir-ists—are touting something called natural wines.
For a quick primer, read my blog about natural wine bars (and restaurants with extensive natural wine selections), published in T: Magazine's The Moment blog. If you haven’t read Alice Feiring’s book The Battle for Wine and Love, you should. (For Alice Feiring’s definition of natural wines, see here. There is, so far, no certification process or label for natural wines.)